Matterhorn above a snowy alpine lake/雪後高山湖畔的馬特洪峰 Zermatt · Matterhorn
10 月 20 日—31 日 · 12 天20–31 OCTOBER · 12 DAYS

海岸、秋湖,
然後雪線
Coast, autumn lakes,
then the snowline

從亞得里亞海到阿爾卑斯

From the Adriatic Sea to the Alps

這一程The routeSplit → (Trogir → Klis / Krka → Šibenik) → Plitvice → Zagreb → Zürich → Grindelwald → Zermatt → Ennetbürgen → Luzern → Zürich

每日行程Daily itinerary

星期二Tuesday
Split

抵達亞得里亞海Arrival on the Adriatic

18:25

抵達 Split Airport(SPU);約 19:00 取車,入住 Hotel Ambasador Split。

Land at Split Airport (SPU); collect the rental car around 19:00 and check in at Hotel Ambasador Split.

使用飯店停車場,€25/晚Use the hotel car park, €25/night
晚上的走法Choose the evening

夜色沿著古城石牆亮起Old stone glowing after dark

從飯店步行到 戴克里先宮與 Riva 看夜景,再到 Pizzeria Sette Sorelle 吃披薩;車留飯店。

Walk from the hotel to Diocletian’s Palace and the Riva, then have pizza at Pizzeria Sette Sorelle; leave the car at the hotel.

☔ 雨天☔ Rain

抵達夜本來就以室內為主:若仍在開放時間,先走戴克里先宮地下室,再選舊城有遮蔽的餐廳;雨勢太大就外帶回飯店。

The arrival evening is already mostly indoors: if opening hours allow, start in Diocletian’s Palace cellars, then choose a sheltered Old Town restaurant. In heavy rain, take food back to the hotel.

星期三Wednesday
海岸與瀑布Coast & waterfalls

海風古城,或秋水峽谷Sea-worn stone or an autumn gorge

07:00–08:30

Hotel Ambasador Split 早餐;供應至 11:00。

Breakfast at Hotel Ambasador Split; service continues until 11:00.

上午路線Morning route

石城在海風裡醒來Stone lanes waking in the sea breeze

09:30–13:00

開車到 T1 Parking(靠木橋與市場、步行約 5 分鐘進舊城),散步世界遺產古城。13:00 在 Konoba Fortin 午餐;客滿改去 Konoba Škrapa;甜點選 Đovani 或 Gelato Bar Bella。

Drive to T1 Parking by the wooden bridge and market, about a five-minute walk from the UNESCO Old Town. At 13:00, lunch at Konoba Fortin, with Konoba Škrapa as backup; finish at Đovani or Gelato Bar Bella.

下午路線Afternoon route

堡壘把夕陽送回海面A fortress before the sea turns gold

15:00–17:00

到 Parkiralište uz Tvrđavu 免費停車場,短程上坡至 Klis Fortress;門票 €12。17:15 前離開 Klis 要塞,開車約 25 分鐘回 Hotel Ambasador,18:02 在飯店房間陽台看海上日落。

Use the free Parkiralište uz Tvrđavu for the short uphill walk to Klis Fortress; admission €12. Leave Klis Fortress by 17:15, drive about 25 minutes back to Hotel Ambasador, and watch the 18:02 sunset from the room balcony.

☔ 雨天☔ Rain

跳過戶外的 Klis 要塞。留在 Split 逛考古博物館或 Meštrović 美術館;也可到 Trogir 舊城找騎樓咖啡館,慢慢坐一個下午。

Skip the exposed Klis Fortress. Stay in Split for the Archaeological Museum or Meštrović Gallery, or settle into a café beneath the arcades of Trogir Old Town.

星期四Thursday
Plitvice

午後的下湖區,瀑布迎著斜光Lower Lakes in the waterfall light

07:00–08:00

Hotel Ambasador Split 早餐後退房,依住宿方建議走最佳內陸路線。

Breakfast and checkout at Hotel Ambasador Split, then take the best inland route recommended by the accommodation.

13:00

抵達 P3/Entrance 2。下湖區午後斜光較適合拍瀑布與經典明信片角度。

Reach P3 / Entrance 2. Afternoon side-light is especially good for photographing the Lower Lakes waterfalls and classic postcard viewpoints.

下午走法Afternoon route等 Lucy 回覆後再決定Decide after Lucy replies

由河畔住處領路Following the river house's lead

照 Lucy/Plitvice River House 建議的 P3 進出路線走;細節等回覆後補上。

Follow the P3 route advised by Lucy / Plitvice River House; details will be added after her reply.

10 月交通(含門票):P1–P2 短程船 07:00–18:00(視需要);P2→P3 08:00–16:30、P3→P2 08:30–17:00,每 30 分鐘。觀光車 St2→St3 07:30–17:00、St3→St2 08:00–17:30、St1→St2 08:15–18:00、St2→St1 08:00–17:45,每 30 分鐘。成人票 €23;實際以官網當日公告為準。October transport (included with admission): P1–P2 short boat 07:00–18:00 on demand; P2→P3 08:00–16:30 and P3→P2 08:30–17:00 every 30 minutes. Panoramic vehicles: St2→St3 07:30–17:00, St3→St2 08:00–17:30, St1→St2 08:15–18:00, St2→St1 08:00–17:45, every 30 minutes. Adult admission €23; check the park's same-day notice.
傍晚Dusk

回到 P3,入住 Plitvice River House。下午先致電 Restaurant Petar 預訂 peka,晚餐備案為 Bistro Old Shatterhand。

Return to P3 and check in at Plitvice River House. Call Restaurant Petar 2–3 hours ahead for peka; backup is Bistro Old Shatterhand.

☔ 雨天☔ Rain

小雨照走,穿好雨具;人少、水量更大,瀑布反而更有氣勢。大雨就縮短為下湖區精華段,並以園區當日開放狀況為準。

In light rain, keep the plan with proper rain gear: crowds thin out and fuller waterfalls can be more dramatic. In heavy rain, shorten the visit to the Lower Lakes highlights and follow the park’s same-day access notices.

星期五Friday
Plitvice → Zürich

上湖晨光,午後直奔機場Morning light on the Upper Lakes

07:00–07:30

由 P3/Entrance 2 入場;售票 07:00 開始,越早木棧道越安靜。上湖區晨光最適合拍層層湖泊與森林倒影。

Enter through P3 / Entrance 2; ticketing starts at 07:00, and the boardwalks are quieter earlier. Morning light is best for the tiered Upper Lakes and forest reflections.

清晨走法Morning route兩案都從 P3 入場Both begin at P3

跟著晨霧裡的在地指引A local path through the morning mist

照 Lucy/Plitvice River House 建議的上湖區晨間路線走;細節等回覆後補上。約 11:00–11:30 回到 P3。

Follow the Upper Lakes morning route advised by Lucy / Plitvice River House; details will be added after her reply. Return to P3 around 11:00–11:30.

中午Noon

沿 D1 到 Rastoke 的 bistro KUM 用餐。

Lunch at bistro KUM in Rastoke along the D1.

13:15

直駛 Zagreb Airport(ZAG)、加油並依租車公司指示進還車停車區。

Drive directly to Zagreb Airport (ZAG), refuel, and enter the rental-return area as directed.

17:50 → 19:20

飛往 Zürich Airport(ZRH),入住 Hyatt Place Zurich Airport The Circle。

Fly to Zürich Airport (ZRH) and check in at Hyatt Place Zurich Airport The Circle.

晚上可選Optional

若還有精神,搭火車進 Zürich 舊城,到 Zeughauskeller 或 Raclette Stube;兩間都需預約。

If energy allows, take the train into Zürich Old Town for Zeughauskeller or Raclette Stube. Reserve either one.

☔ 雨天☔ Rain

小雨照走,穿好雨具;人少、水量更大,瀑布反而更有氣勢。大雨就不走完整上湖區,改成較短的下湖區精華段,準時回 P3 出發去機場。

In light rain, keep walking with proper rain gear: fewer visitors and fuller waterfalls can make the park more dramatic. In heavy rain, skip the full Upper Lakes circuit, take a shorter Lower Lakes highlights route, and return to P3 on time for the airport.

Alpine peaks above Grindelwald/Grindelwald 上方的阿爾卑斯山景
BERNESE OBERLAND

沿著鐵道,進入伯恩高地By rail into the Bernese Oberland

瀑布谷、季末纜車與少女峰,都把決定留給當天的山。Waterfall valleys, last-day cable cars, and Jungfraujoch—let the mountains decide.

星期六Saturday
Grindelwald

10:06 黃金列車進山Into the mountains on the 10:06 GoldenPass line

06:30
行李已寄出嗎?Has the luggage been sent?

行李先走,山路才輕Send the luggage ahead, travel light

前一晚來不及寄,就到 Zürich Flughafen 車站 SBB 櫃檯辦理;06:30 開,CHF 12/件,10/26 09:00 起可在 Zermatt 領。

If it was not sent the previous evening, use the SBB counter at Zürich Flughafen station. It opens at 06:30; CHF 12 per item, collectable in Zermatt from 09:00 on 10/26.

07:00–07:45

Hyatt Place Zurich Airport The Circle 早餐(供應 06:00–10:30,CHF 35/人,另計)。

Breakfast at Hyatt Place Zurich Airport The Circle (served 06:00–10:30; CHF 35 per person, extra).

約 08:05

離開飯店,步行約 5 分鐘到 Zürich Flughafen 車站。

Leave the hotel and walk about five minutes to Zürich Flughafen station.

約 08:15

搭火車前往 Luzern 車站,預留約 70 分鐘與轉乘時間,約 09:25 抵達。

Take the train to Luzern station, allowing about 70 minutes including the connection, to arrive around 09:25.

10:06

Luzern–Interlaken Express → Interlaken Ost 11:54;2026 時刻表沒有 08:xx 班次。09:06 班次需約 07:15 離開飯店,無法兼顧原定早餐。

Take the Luzern–Interlaken Express to Interlaken Ost, arriving at 11:54; the 2026 timetable has no 08:xx departure. Catching the 09:06 would require leaving the hotel around 07:15 and conflicts with the planned breakfast.

Saver Day Pass 涵蓋;不必訂位,可選 CHF 16/人Covered by Saver Day Pass; reservation optional at CHF 16/person
約 12:30

抵達 Grindelwald,到 BERGWELT GRINDELWALD | ALPINE DESIGN RESORT 寄放行李。出發前看 Jungfrau 官方即時 webcam。

Arrive in Grindelwald and leave luggage at BERGWELT GRINDELWALD | ALPINE DESIGN RESORT. Check the official Jungfrau live webcams before setting out.

下午方案Afternoon options

先走瀑布谷Take the waterfall valley

下午Afternoon

寄放行李後,直接前往 Lauterbrunnen 瀑布小鎮與 Mürren。

After leaving the luggage, go directly to the waterfall village of Lauterbrunnen and Mürren.

☔ 雨天☔ Rain

出發前確認 First 與 Mürren 的纜車是否因風雨停駛;以現場公告為準。

Before setting out, confirm whether wind or rain has suspended the First or Mürren cable cars; follow same-day operating notices.

星期日Sunday
Grindelwald

依 10/24 天氣,把兩天接起來A second day shaped by 10/24 weather

07:00–08:30

BERGWELT GRINDELWALD | ALPINE DESIGN RESORT 早餐(供應 07:00–10:30)。上山前看 Jungfrau 官方即時 webcam。

Breakfast at BERGWELT GRINDELWALD | ALPINE DESIGN RESORT (served 07:00–10:30). Check the official Jungfrau live webcams before heading up.

兩天天氣方案Two-day weather plan

清晨再上 First,午後走瀑布谷First at its quietest, then the waterfall valley

一早Early

再去一次 First,享受人少時光;步道狀況允許再順遊 Bachalpsee。

Return to First early for the quietest hours, adding Bachalpsee only if trail conditions allow.

下午Afternoon

到 Lauterbrunnen 瀑布小鎮走走,再回 Grindelwald 小鎮晚餐。

Walk through the waterfall village of Lauterbrunnen, then return to Grindelwald for dinner.

16:00–17:00

回 Grindelwald 小鎮,到 Onkel Tom's;不接受預約,提早去排隊。

Return to Grindelwald for dinner at Onkel Tom's. It does not take reservations, so arrive early to queue.

☔ 雨天☔ Rain

若 10/25 早上山頂仍無展望或纜車停駛,就不勉強上山,留在 Grindelwald 小鎮與飯店休息。

If the summit still has no visibility on 10/25 morning or the cable car is suspended, do not force the mountain trip; stay in Grindelwald and rest at the hotel.

星期一Monday
Jungfraujoch → Zermatt

看過早晨的山,再決定去少女峰或進策馬特Let the morning sky decide: Jungfraujoch or Zermatt

07:00–07:30

BERGWELT GRINDELWALD | ALPINE DESIGN RESORT 早餐(供應 07:00–10:30)後退房,先看 Jungfrau 官方即時 webcam 確認天氣與山頂能見度。

Breakfast at BERGWELT GRINDELWALD | ALPINE DESIGN RESORT (served 07:00–10:30), check out, then use the official Jungfrau live webcams to assess current weather and summit visibility.

早上看天氣再決定Decide after the morning weather check

天氣好,再上少女峰Jungfraujoch when the summit is clear

早上Morning

Grindelwald Terminal → Eiger Express → Jungfraujoch。5–10 月強制訂位;依 10/24–25 的天氣預報與今早實況確認。

Grindelwald Terminal → Eiger Express → Jungfraujoch. Reservations are compulsory from May to October; confirm using the 10/24–25 forecast and this morning’s conditions.

中午後After noon

下山後到 King Noodle Bar 吃熱食,或在 Coop 外帶上車。

After descending, have something hot at King Noodle Bar, or pick up food from Coop for the train.

下午Afternoon

搭火車前往 Zermatt,約 3.5 小時;抵達後領行李,入住 BEAUSiTE Zermatt。

Travel by train to Zermatt, about 3.5 hours, collect the forwarded luggage, and check in at BEAUSiTE Zermatt.

Zermatt 禁止一般汽車進入;若自駕,車停 Matterhorn Terminal Täsch 再轉接駁火車。Private cars are not allowed into Zermatt; drivers must park at Matterhorn Terminal Täsch and take the shuttle train.
☔ 雨天☔ Rain

壞天氣不上 Jungfraujoch,直接使用「提早進 Zermatt」方案。

In poor weather, skip Jungfraujoch and use the “Early Zermatt” plan.

Matterhorn above a snowy alpine lake/雪後高山湖畔的馬特洪峰
VALAIS

在馬特洪峰下慢下來Slow down beneath the Matterhorn

先飛行,再沿登山鐵道去找倒影。First take flight, then follow the mountain railway in search of the reflection.

星期二Tuesday
Zermatt

飛行傘與老村午後Paragliding and an old-village afternoon

07:00–08:30

BEAUSiTE Zermatt 早餐(供應 07:00–11:00)。Zermatt 全日步行與大眾運輸;自駕車留在 Täsch。

Breakfast at BEAUSiTE Zermatt (served 07:00–11:00). Use walking and public transport in car-free Zermatt; any private car stays in Täsch.

09:30

Matterhorn tandem paragliding 飛行傘;上午不再塞其他活動。

Matterhorn tandem paragliding; keep the rest of the morning open for weather and timing.

下午Afternoon

參觀 Matterhorn Museum,再在 Zermatt 老村與河邊慢走。

Visit the Matterhorn Museum, then take a relaxed walk through old Zermatt and along the river.

☔ 雨天☔ Rain

飛行傘若因天氣取消,整天改成 Matterhorn Museum、Zermatt 小鎮咖啡,再回 BEAUSiTE 泡 spa、耍廢;不必硬塞戶外行程。

If the operator cancels paragliding, make it a full indoor day: Matterhorn Museum, a café in Zermatt, then spa time and a lazy afternoon at BEAUSiTE. There is no need to force an outdoor plan.

星期三Wednesday
Zermatt

Gornergrat + Riffelsee

07:00–08:30

BEAUSiTE Zermatt 早餐(供應 07:00–11:00)。Zermatt 無一般自駕車;車留 Matterhorn Terminal Täsch。

Breakfast at BEAUSiTE Zermatt (served 07:00–11:00). Zermatt is car-free; leave any private vehicle at Matterhorn Terminal Täsch.

白天Daytime

搭登山火車到 Gornergrat 山頂觀景台,再視步道與結冰狀況前往 Riffelsee。

Take the mountain railway to the Gornergrat summit viewpoint, then continue to Riffelsee only if trail and ice conditions allow.

16:30

到 The North Wall 吃披薩;熱門時段建議預約。

Pizza at The North Wall; reserve for busy hours.

☔ 雨天☔ Rain

Gornergrat 沒有展望就不上山。留在 Zermatt 逛博物館、到登山家公墓快閃,或提早去山谷小鎮;也可以直接回 BEAUSiTE 休息。

Skip Gornergrat when there is no view. Stay in Zermatt for the museum and a quick stop at the Mountaineers’ Cemetery, head down to a valley town early, or simply relax at BEAUSiTE.

Lake Lucerne and the surrounding mountains/琉森湖與環湖山色
LAKE LUCERNE

湖光裡的最後兩夜The final two nights by the lake

地名是 Ennetbürgen;Villa Honegg 只是一晚的住處,也是風景本身。The place is Ennetbürgen; Villa Honegg is the one-night stay—and part of the scenery.

星期四Thursday
Zermatt → Ennetbürgen

長途移動,下午留給湖景A travel day ending with the lake

07:00–08:30

BEAUSiTE Zermatt 早餐(供應 07:00–11:00)後退房。

Breakfast at BEAUSiTE Zermatt (served 07:00–11:00), then check out.

早上Morning

由 Zermatt 經 Visp–Luzern–Stansstad 前往 Ennetbürgen,抓約 3.5–4 小時。

Travel from Zermatt via Visp, Luzern, and Stansstad to Ennetbürgen; allow roughly 3.5–4 hours.

15:00 前午餐Lunch before 15:00吃完再上山Then head uphill

湖邊一桌,再往高處去A lakeside table before the climb

在 Stansstad 湖畔的 AIOLA al Porto 用餐。

Have lunch by the lake at AIOLA al Porto in Stansstad.

15:00

入住 Villa Honegg,把下午留給無邊際泳池與湖景;若開車抵達,使用飯店停車。

Check in at Villa Honegg and spend the afternoon at the infinity pool overlooking the lake; drivers use the hotel car park.

☔ 雨天☔ Rain

移動日不用另找景點。抵達 Villa Honegg 後直接留在飯店,泡 spa 與溫水無邊際泳池;下雨也照樣享受。

No extra sightseeing is needed on this travel day. Once at Villa Honegg, stay in for the spa and heated infinity pool—the hotel is still the plan in the rain.

星期五Friday
Ennetbürgen → Luzern → Zürich

日出之後,選一個下午After sunrise, choose one afternoon

06:50

到 Villa Honegg 泳池露台等 07:06 日出。

Be on the Villa Honegg pool terrace for the 07:06 sunrise.

07:00–11:00

Villa Honegg 早餐(官網時間 07:00–11:00),悠閒吃完再整理退房。

Breakfast at Villa Honegg, served 07:00–11:00 according to the hotel, followed by a relaxed checkout.

12:00

前往 Luzern;大行李放 Luzern 車站置物櫃,下午以火車/船/纜車移動,不另找停車。

Continue to Luzern, leave large luggage in a locker at Luzern station, and use trains, boats, and mountain transport rather than parking again.

下午Afternoon

搭最陡齒軌,登上 PilatusThe steep railway to Pilatus

Pilatus:由 Alpnachstad 搭齒軌火車原路來回,約 3.5–4 小時。Kriens 纜車 10/17–11/27 維修中;先到 pilatus.ch 預約。

Pilatus: return via the cogwheel railway from Alpnachstad, about 3.5–4 hours. The Kriens cable car is under maintenance from 10/17 to 11/27; reserve through pilatus.ch in advance.

18:00–19:00

Luzern 晚餐:Mill'Feuille/Pastarazzi/Phanat Thai,再看 卡貝爾橋夜景。

Dinner in Luzern at Mill'Feuille, Pastarazzi, or Phanat Thai, followed by Chapel Bridge after dark.

晚間Evening

搭約 1 小時火車前往 Zürich Airport,入住 Hyatt Place Zurich Airport The Circle。

Take the roughly one-hour train to Zürich Airport and check in at Hyatt Place Zurich Airport The Circle.

☔ 雨天☔ Rain

Luzern 改去大型室內的瑞士交通博物館,或走有頂的卡貝爾橋;之後提早到 Zürich 舊城逛店,再回機場飯店。

In Luzern, choose the large indoor Swiss Museum of Transport or the covered Chapel Bridge. Then head to Zürich early for Old Town shopping before returning to the airport hotel.

星期六Saturday
返程Departure

離開 ZürichLeaving Zürich

約 07:30Around 07:30

抵達 Zürich Airport(ZRH)報到區,留足行李、安檢與退稅時間。

Reach the check-in area at Zürich Airport (ZRH) with time for baggage, security, and any tax-refund formalities.

10:35

航班起飛,結束這一段秋日旅程。

Flight departure—the autumn journey comes to an end.

出發前,把幾個關鍵點鎖好Lock in the few details that matter

不是每一站都要預約;只有會讓路線斷掉的先處理。

Not every stop needs a booking. Prioritize only what could break the route.

待辦To do

  • 10/22 下午致電 Restaurant Petar 預訂當晚 peka。Call Restaurant Petar on the afternoon of 10/22 to order that evening’s peka.
  • 向 Plitvice 住宿方確認最佳內陸路線、P3 進出與停車。Confirm the best inland route, P3 access, and parking with the Plitvice accommodation.
  • 10/24–25 看天氣後完成 Jungfraujoch 10/26 訂位。After checking the 10/24–25 forecast, reserve Jungfraujoch for 10/26.
  • 書面確認 10/27 飛行傘集合點、季節營運與天氣流程。Get written confirmation of the 10/27 paragliding meeting point, seasonal operation, and weather procedure.
  • 若要去,預約 The North Wall(10/28)與 Zürich 晚餐(10/23)。If going, reserve The North Wall for 10/28 and dinner in Zürich for 10/23.
  • Pilatus 方案啟用時,到 pilatus.ch 預約 Alpnachstad 齒軌來回。If choosing Pilatus, reserve the Alpnachstad cogwheel return trip through pilatus.ch.
  • 在 swisspass.ch 綁定 SwissPass;出發前一週重查 10/26 SBB 班次。Link SwissPass at swisspass.ch and recheck 10/26 SBB services one week before departure.

一路記得Remember

  • Kantun Paulina 只收現金。Kantun Paulina is cash only.
  • Trogir 方案要在 17:15 前離開 Klis,開車約 25 分鐘回 Hotel Ambasador,18:02 在房間陽台看日落。On the Trogir plan, leave Klis by 17:15, drive about 25 minutes back to Hotel Ambasador, and watch the 18:02 sunset from the room balcony.
  • Krka 方案走 Lozovac → Skradinski Buk → Skradin → Šibenik,不折返。The Krka plan runs Lozovac → Skradinski Buk → Skradin → Šibenik without backtracking.
  • 10/24 若選 Grindelwald,務必先買好週日野餐。If staying in Grindelwald on 10/24, buy Sunday’s picnic that day.
  • 10/25 凌晨瑞士切換冬令時間,手機通常會自動調整。Switzerland changes to winter time overnight on 10/25; phones usually adjust automatically.
  • 高山行程以風、雲、步道與現場營運優先。For mountain days, wind, cloud, trail conditions, and actual operation come first.

餐桌索引 · 20 間Table index · 20 places